Multi-site assessment of microtidal wave-dominated active beach state and morpho-sedimentary parameters using optical satellite imagery

Publication date

2026-03-31

Authors

Frugier, Salomé
Almar, Rafael
Bergsma, Erwin W J
Graffin, Marcan
Ruessink, GerbenORCID 0000-0001-9526-6087ISNI 0000000117053107

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Article
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Abstract

Traditionally, beach states are defined from visual observations, in-situ measurements and/or video imagery, which limits their application to a handful of well-instrumented sites. In this work, we propose a different approach by focusing on a remotely observable quantity: the cross-shore distance between the offshore wave-breaking and the shoreline position, denoted. This metric defines the active beach state, capturing where waves dissipate energy relative to the underlying morphology. Using 10 years of Sentinel-2 imagery, is evaluated across 30 wave-dominated microtidal sandy beaches spanning reflective to fully dissipative conditions. The metric reproduces the structure of classical beach state frameworks and enables classification into five active states (R, LTT, TBR/RBB, LBT, and D) using transferable thresholds. is continuous, thus it also reveals how beach state evolve through time, allowing quantification of state occurrence, residence time, and transitions, with seasonal variability consistent with independent classifications at well-studied sites. Furthermore, using empirical relationships, we demonstrate that carries first-order information about beach-face slope () and sediment grain size (), opening a pathway toward systematic satellite-based monitoring of coastal morphodynamics at regional to global scales.

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Citation

Frugier, S, Almar, R, Bergsma, E W J, Graffin, M & Ruessink, G 2026, 'Multi-site assessment of microtidal wave-dominated active beach state and morpho-sedimentary parameters using optical satellite imagery', Scientific Reports, vol. 16, no. 1, 10949. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-026-45638-3