Parameterization of wave run-up on beaches in Yucatan, Mexico: a numerical study

Abstract

Run-up parameterization is an important tool for conducting vulnerability studies on flooding and erosion in coastal areas. This study makes use of a coupling between the SWAN and SWASH models, to investigate the influence of beach morphology and tidal water level on run-up statistics. Furthermore the applicability of current run-up parameterizations on model predictions for various beach profiles in Yucatan (Mexico) is evaluated. Results revealed that tidal water level has more influence than foreshore slope on run-up statistics. The model simulations at four different Yucatan locations showed saturation of the high frequency (f > 0.05 Hz) swash height and setup with increasing deep water wave height, whereas the infragravity swash height (f < 0.05 Hz) did not saturate for the considered conditions. The simulated 2% exceedence value was often within 25% of run-up parameterizations.